3/10/2024 0 Comments Wrc 10 car setup guideLSD’s often come into play when accelerating and steering at the same time. Lowering the driving lock percentage grants more grip under acceleration. Limited Slip Differential (LSD) Driving Lock: A limited slip diff allows two wheels on the same axis to spin at different speeds. (Note, depending on your car’s drive, you may be missing some of these options) Experienced racers who can read surfaces and tell how much grip will be available should increase brake strength and use their discretion to brake at the optimal amount. Newer players who have a tendency to mash the brakes down fully should lower brake strength. On tarmac surfaces, your tires have more available traction, so you can increase your brake force to take advantage of a grippier surface. Thus, you should increase your brake strength until you lock your wheels too often. When your wheels are locked (due to the properties of static and dynamic friction) your car will continue to slow, but at a lesser rate. Keep in mind that your car can only brake as hard as you have traction on all of your wheels if your braking force exceeds available traction, your wheels lock. A balanced or rear brake bias will result in the rears locking, which could help with turn-in, but generally, it’s preferred to have more front-bias and use your handbrake when you want to lock the rear tires and induce oversteer.īrake Strength: Changes the braking force applied to your wheels. A front brake bias will make the front wheels lock before the rears do, which generally results in braking understeer, which is a lot safer. Typically on tarmac environments, this ratio needs to be towards the front (70:30 or 60:40 is generally recommended). Brakesīrake Bias: Defines which axes (front or back) braking strength is applied to the most. IMPORTANT! Every Car you can own has an unlock called “Advanced Tuning.” Once this option is unlocked, you can drill into each tuning option to get access to different sub-options by pushing, (A), or whatever the equivalent is on your setup. Perhaps more importantly, if I give recommendations, know that a lot of car-feel preferences are highly subjective, and dependant on what the driver himself wants to get out of his car. Furthermore, I might be flat wrong on some of these. WHAT DOES EACH OPTION ACTUALLY DO?īefore I start this guide, I have to disclose that despite playing a lot of Colin McRae Rally 2005, Forza 1-4 and now DiRT Rally, I do NOT have perfect knowledge of tuning or setting up the fastest tune. If any more technical terminology comes up, I’ll try to define it. Also, TURN-IN: how responsive your car is when going from straight to turning the wheel, where more turn-in means more responsiveness, less turn-in means more sluggishness. OVERSTEER IN ACTION and UNDERSTEER IN ACTION. and UNDERSTEER: when your front tires have broken loose and your rear tires are maintaining their grip. The two most important terms I’ll be using are OVERSTEER: when your rear tires have broken loose and your front tires are maintaining their grip. I’ll describe how in this tuning guide.įirst, let’s define some basic terminology that I’ll be applying to this Tune Guide. However, within the bounds of this sim, it’s possible to get much more slidey cars. Some early reviewers hold this against DiRT Rally as a sim, and rightfully so: most rally cars in real life will be built to have an overabundance of front end grip and a lot less rear grip. A common complaint I’ve heard about DiRT Rally is that cars don’t have a lot of front-end grip out of the box.
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